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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQS);faqs.192



Another common reason for vomiting is overeating, particularly dry
food.  The dry food absorbs water and swells, and then they have to
throw it back up.  If the vomit looks like a semi-solid tube of
partially digested cat food, that's probably what it is.

A cat may vomit when it is allergic to its food.  You can check this
out by trying another brand of food with substantially different
ingredients and no food colorings.

Sometimes cats vomit when they have worms.  Consult your vet for a
worming appointment.

If cats eat something that obstructs their digestive system, they may
try to vomit it back up.  If you can see some of it in their mouth, DO
NOT PULL IT OUT, especially if it is string.  You may just cut up
their intestines in the attempt.  Take the cat to the vet immediately.

If the cat displays other changes of behavior along with the vomiting,
you should consult the vet.  Eg. listlessness, refusing food along
with vomiting may indicate poisoning.

Periodic throwing up can be a sign of an over-active thyroid.  This is
particularly common in older cats.  Your vet can do a blood test and
find out the thyroid level.  It can also be indicative of a kidney
infection: something that your vet can also check out.

In general, as distasteful as it may be, you should examine any vomit
for indication of why the cat vomited.

2.  Vomit stains

You may now have stains on the carpet that you want to get rid of.
Spot Shot works well at removing stains.  If you're having trouble
with bright red or orange stains, you may want to invest in a cat food
that doesn't use dyes.  That can help considerably in reducing the
stain factor.

K.  Diarrhea.

If your cat has persistent diarrhea:

  * Take the cat to the vet if symptoms have continued for more
    than 2 days.
  * Bring a stool sample with you and have the vet check for
    parasites.  Also have them check for a fever.
  * Change the cat's diet to one or more of the following
    (depending on the cat's preferences):
    * boiled rice
    * cottage cheese
    * bread
    * plain yogurt
    * boiled chicken
    * chicken broth
    * baby food (strained meat varieties)
     (The emphasis on the above being as BLAND as possible. No
    spices allowed as they tend to aggravate the stomach.)
  * The vet may or may not prescribe medication.  1/2t of
    kaopectate (NOT peptobismol, it contains asprin) usually works
    pretty well too.
  * Usually diarrhea lasts only a few days. If it lasts longer than
    that, as long as the cat does not have a fever, it USUALLY does
    not mean anything serious, but you must protect the cat from
    dehydration by making it take in plenty of liquids.

1.  Possible causes for acute diarrhea.

From: Colin F. Burrows.  1991.  _Diarrhea in kittens and young cats_.  pp.
415-418 IN J.R. August.  Consultations in Feline Internal Medicine. WB
Saunders Co., Philadelphia.

Causes of Acute (sudden onset) Diarrhea in Kittens and Young Cats
*Infections*
  Viral
    Panleucopenia (distemper)
    Feline Leukemia Virus
    Coronavirus
    Rotavirus
    Astrovirus
  Bacterial
    Salmonella
    Campylobacter ?
    Escherischia coli (not documented in cats)
  Parasitic
    Roundworms
    Hookworms
    Coccidia
    Giardia
    Toxoplasma

*Diet* esp. dietary change or raid on the garbage

*Toxic or drug-induced*
   Acetominophen (tylenol)
   antibiotics

*Miscellaneous*
   partial intestinal obstruction

Most common causes are viral infections and dietary changes.

Treatments:

Rule out parasites with complete fecal exam.  Withhold food for 24-48
hours to rest the GI tract.  Maintain fluid balance with water.  Add a
little sugar to water if kitten is mentally dull...  Severe diarrhea
may require 1-2 ml peptobismal 3 or 4 times daily for no more than 3
or 4 days.

After 24-48 hours, begin feeding, using canned tuna in water, chicken
breast and rice, or cooked egg.  Avoid non-premium dry catfood for
several days.  No milk until feces are normal for 2-3 days.

2.  Causes of chronic diarrhea

Viral and Bacterial
    FIV
    FeLeuk
    Salmonella
    Campylobacter
    Clostridium
Parasites
    as above, except Toxoplasma

Dietary sensitivity

Miscellaneous
  Inflammatory Bowel Diseawse
  Drug Sensitivity
  Inappropriate use of antibiotics
  Bacterial overgrowth??
  Partial intestinal obstruction
  Idiopathic (no known cause)

You should enlist the help of your vet if symptoms persist for more
than a few days, or if your kitten is weak or listless, or refuses to
take fluids.  Dehydration can rapidly kill a kitten.

L.  Neutering.

If you are not planning to breed your cat or put it to stud service,
you will want to neuter it.  Technically, the general term for either
sex is neutering; female cats are spayed and male cats are castrated.
However, general usage is that female cats are spayed or neutered and
male cats are neutered.

1. Castration

Male cats are castrated. A local anesthetic is administered and
several stitches are used to close it up.  You will want to neuter the
male cat after its testicles descend but before its urine odor
changes.  This is typically around 6 months of age.  By neutering
earlier, you prevent spraying (if it has started spraying, it may not
stop after neutering, even though it is no longer hormonally driven).
By neutering later, you allow the testicles and urinary tract full
development; this is thought to reduce the chances of contracting FUS
(growth will stop after neutering or puberty; be aware that the jury
is out on this one).  If surgery must be done on an undescended
testicle then the cost and risk increase.

An intact male cat (a "tom") will spray a foul-smelling urine to mark
his territory, he will roam widely, and he will be involved in more
fights.  Often, he will be more aggressive.  He will be at higher risk
for certain diseases, such as cancer; he will also be more prone to
infection from the injuries in fights.  A neutered male cat will lose
the foul-smelling odor in his urine (but may still spray); he will not
roam as widely nor fight as often.  You will be able to keep him
indoors if you wish.  Contrary to popular opinion, he will not become
more lazy or fat.  Laziness and fatness depend on cat temperament and
how much you feed him.

2. Spaying

Female cats are spayed; this is an ovario-hysterectomy (uterus and
ovaries are removed).  There are two methods: ventral entry which is
through the stomach muscles in the belly (where a large patch of fur
will be shaved to prevent later irritation of the incision), and the
lateral entry which is through a small incision in the cat's side.
Ventral entry is less expensive, lateral entry has a quicker recovery
time.  You may have to bring your cat back in after ventral entry to
remove stitches; lateral entry uses internal sutures which dissolve.
Ventral entry is much more commonly employed; lateral entry is
relatively rare, and not all vets may know how to do it.

The cat must be put under general anesthesia.  There is always an
element of risk in general anesthesia and while it is rare, a few
rec.pets.cats readers have had their cats die under anesthesia.  The
earlier the female cat is spayed, the better.  Any time after four
months or once the heat cycles have started is good.  Spaying when the
cat is in heat or already pregnant is possible, although some vets
refuse to operate under these circumstances.  On occasion, a female
cat will not have all of her ovaries removed.  The ovaries produce the
hormones that induce heat: if your cat still goes through heat after
being spayed, you may have to take her in for exploratory surgery to
find the missed ovary, or even piece of ovary.

An intact female cat (a "queen") will go through heat which can be as
frequent as one week in four.  You must keep her indoors to prevent
breeding, and she will do her best to escape.  She will spray a foul
smelling substance.  Many cats will meow loudly for long periods of
time.  She will twitch her tail to the side and display her vulva.  If
she becomes pregnant, she will undergo all the risks and expenses
associated with pregnancy (extra visits to the vet and extra food).
Male cats will try very hard to get at her; there are documented
cases, for example, of male cats entering homes through the chimney.
Medication is available that will delay heat; breeders use this to
control the number of times their queens are bred and to work around
cat show schedules.  An unbred, unspayed cat has a much higher risk of
developing cancer of the reproductive system.  Again, spayed females
do not lose their energy or change their personality after the
procedure.

Female cats may come into estrus within a few days of giving birth.
If you have a mom-cat that you want to stop from having more litters,
try to get her spayed as soon as possible after the kittens are born.

3.  Post-op recovery

You will need to watch to make sure your cat does not try to pull out
its stitches.  Consult your vet if your cat starts pulling at its
stitches.  You might, in persistent cases, need to get an elizabethan
collar to prevent the cat from reaching the stitches.  Puffiness,
redness, or oozing around the stiches should be also reported to the
vet.

Some stitches "dissolve" on their own; others require a return to the
vet for removal.

|You should note that male cats will take some time to flush all
|testosterone and semen out of their systems.  There have been recorded
|cases of "neutered" cats impregnating female cats shortly after their
|operation.  Three to four weeks is sufficient time for neutered toms
|to become sterile.

4. Cost

The cost can vary widely, depending on where you get it done.  There
are many pet-adoption places that will offer low-cost or even free
neutering services, sometimes as a condition of adoption.  Local
animal clinics will often offer low-cost neutering.  Be aware that
spaying will always cost more than castrating at any given place since
spaying is a more complex operation.  Vets almost always charge more
than clinics, partly because of overhead, but also because they often
keep the animal overnight for observation and will do free followup on
any later complications (a consideration in the case of missed
ovaries).

In the US, there is at least one group, "Friends of Animals"
(1-800-321-7387) that will give you information on low-cost
spay/neutering places, or do it themselves.  They often have
price-reduction certificates that your vet may accept.

Quoting actual prices may or may not give you an idea of the cost for
you in your area.  Costs can range from US$10 for castration at a
clinic to US$100 for spaying at the vet's.  This is money well spent.
One pair of cats, allowed to breed, and with 2 litters a year and 2.8
surviving kittens per litter, will account for 80,000 cats in 10
years!

M.  Declawing.

Declawing is the surgical removal of the claw and the surrounding
tissue that it retracts into.  Usually the claws on the front feet
only are removed.  This is sometimes used as a last resort with
inveterate scratchers of furniture, carpet, etc.  However, if trained
in kittenhood, most cats are very good about scratching only allowable
items such as scratching posts (see Scratching).  Britain has made
declawing illegal.  Show cats may not be declawed.

Declawed cats often compensate with their rear claws; many can still
climb well, although their ability to defend themselves is often
impaired and they should not be allowed outside without supervision.
Many declawed cats become biters when they find that their claws no
longer work; others develop displays of growling.  Scratching is one
way of marking territory (there are scent glands among the paw pads),
so declawed cats will still "scratch" things even though there are no
claws to sharpen.

Alternatives are trimming the claws (see section on Trimming Claws) or
"Soft Paws".  These are soft plastic covers for the cat's claws.
Generally, the vet will put them on, but cat owners can do so
themselves if shown how.  They will last about a month despite efforts
to remove them.  Check the July 1992 issue of _Animal Sense_.  There is
an informative article titled "Fake Fingernails for Felines?" by Dr.
Marilyn Hayes at the Rowley Animal Hospital in Rowley, MA.

N.  Cat Allergies.

Here are some highlights from the article in
CATS Magazine, April 1992, pertaining to cats with allergies.

- Just like people, cats can suffer from a wide range of allergies.
- A cat with one allergy often has others.
- 15% of all cats in the U.S. suffer from one or more allergies
- Cats' allergies fall into several categories, each with a parallel
  complaint among human allergy sufferers.  Inhalant allergies are caused
  by airborne articles, such as pollen, that irritate the nasal passages
  and lungs.  Contact alllergies manifest themselves when the cat has
  prolonged contact with a substance that it just cannot tolerate.  Cats
  have allergies to foods as well -- not so much to the chemical
  preservatives but to the grains, meats and dairy products used.  Some
  cats react badly to certain drugs, such as antibiotics or anesthesia.
- Flea allergy is the most common of all allergies.  As cats age, their
  sensitivity to flea bites increases.
- Between 5 & 10 percent of allergy cases are caused by food. Like contact
  allergies, food allergies will show up as dermatitis and severe itching
  but in some cases will also cause vomiting and diarrhea.  Also, the cat
  may have excessively oily skin, ear inflammation, or hair loss (which can
  also be a sign of hormone imbalance).

* A food allergy doesn't show up overnight.  It can take from a week to 10
* years of exposure to show itself; more than 80 percent of cats with food
* allergies have been eating the allergen-containing food for more than two
* years.

  Studies are being done to determine possible connections between food
  allergies and FUS, with some success in eliminating foods and cutting
  down on FUS symptoms.  Results are still experimental.

  Food allergies are treated with a bland, hypoallergenic diet -- rice with
  boiled chicken or lamb, and distilled water is commonly used.  Two weeks
  is the longest it usually takes for the bland diet to work.

- Plants, especially oily-leafed ones, such as rubber plants, that might be
  brushed against.

  Other contact allergens include: carpet fresheners, wool, house dust,
  newsprint, cleansers and topical medications.  Even the carpet itself.

  Signs of contact allergens:  dermatitis, pigmentary changes or skin
  eruptions.  Most noticable on the chin, ears, inner thighs, abdomen,
  underside of the tail, armpits and around the anus.

  Skin patch tests are used to determine cause of contact allergies.

- Medications that commonly cause skin eruptions: penicillin, tetracycline,
  neomycin and panleukopenia vaccine.

  Each drug causes different symptoms, but the symptoms differ from cat to
  cat.  There is no way to predict how a cat will react.

  Antihistamines or steroids may be used to eliminate symptoms (after
  ceasing administration of the drug)

- Kitty litter - a quote from a vet, "Every time they bring out a new
  litter I get a whole parade of cats coming in with reactions to it."

- Besides litterbox filler, cats share many inhalant allergies with people.

  In winter, especially in the Northern states, when the furnace is turned
  on for the first time, the sudden head & air flow dislodges dust & mod
  that has been growing in the furnace ducts over the summer and can
  trigger a cats inhalant allergy.  Other inhalent allergens are cigarette
  smoke, perfumes, household sprays and air fresheners, and yes, pollen.

  Inhalent allergies can also result in skin loss, scabbing pustules, or
  ulcerated areas on the skin.  This in addition to the asthmatic symptoms.

  Treatment is similar to humans...antihistamines, such as
  chlortrimetron..  More severe cases are treated with systemic steroids,
  which can have drawbacks.

  For cats with debilitating inhalant allergies, a possible treatment is
  desensitization, during which a cat is exposed to more & more of the
  allergen, so that it builds a resistance to it.

- Watch for signs, consult your vet.


O.  Aging.

Most cats will reach about 11 or 12 years of age.  Some make it 18 and
very few to 20 and beyond.

According to material provided by the Gaines Research Center, cats
will age 15 years in the first year (10 in the first six months!) and
4 years for every year after that.  Other vets will say 20 years for
the first year, 4 years for each year thereafter.


IV.  PROBLEM BEHAVIORS (INSIDE)

A.  In General.

You cannot discipline cats as you would dogs.  Dogs form social
hierarchies that you can take advantage of by placing yourself at the
top.  Cats form social groups only by necessity and the arrangement is
based on respecting territory, not by respecting the "top dog".  Many
mistakes made with cats are due to thinking that they will react like
dogs.

**Do not *ever* hit a cat or use any sort of physical punishment.**
You will only teach your cat to fear you.

  * You can train your cat not to perform inappropriate behavior by
    training your cat to perform other behavior alternative to or
    incompatible with the inappropriate behavior.

  * Since cats hate to be surprised, you can use waterbottles,
    clapping, hissing, and other sudden noises (such as snapping,
    "No!") to stop unwanted behavior.  However, be aware that these
    tactics will not work when you are not present.  In addition,
    immediacy is key: even seconds late may render it ineffective.
    You must do it as soon as the cat starts the behavior.

  * The face-push has been described by various readers.  This
    consists of pushing the palm of your hand into the cat's face.
    This is best used when discouraging something like biting.  Don't
    hit the cat, simply push its face back gently.  You might
    accompany it with a "no!"

  * Making certain behaviors impossible is another tactic.  Think
    "childproofing": keep food in containers; keep breakable and/or
    dangerous objects out of reach; make sure heavy objects, e.g.
    bookshelves, are stable.  Look for childproofing gadgets and hints
    and think how you can apply them to preventing cat problems.  Even
    when the analogy isn't perfect, physically preventing problems is
    still a good guide.  E.g., defrosting meat?  Put it in the
    (unheated) stove, not out on the counter.

It is always best to train your cat away from undesireable behavior as
soon as possible, as young as possible.  You will have the most
success training your cat when it is young on what is acceptable to
scratch and what is not.  Never tolerate it when it is "cute" since it
will not always remain so.

B.  Plants.

Cats are frequently fascinated with houseplants.  However, you may not
appreciate the attention, which can range from chewing on the plant
leaves to digging or peeing in the plant soil.

For chewing, try spraying Bitter Apple or Bitter Orange on the leaves.
Dusting cayenne pepper on them may also help.  You may wish to grow
some grass or catnip for them as an alternative; plants do provide
them with needed nutrients (the absence of which may be causing their
grazing).

For digging or urinating, cover the dirt with aluminum foil or gravel.
If the plant needs it, add some vinegar to the soil to counteract the
ammonia in the urine.

C.  Spraying.

Some cats start spraying in the house.  You will want to first rule
out any medical causes, such as FUS or cystitis.  Sometimes it is
useful to distinguish between *spraying* (which winds up on walls) and
*urinating* (which is generally on the floor).  Spraying is more often
a behavior problem and urination is more often a medical problem. It
is best to check with a vet first.  If the problem is medical, then
you will need to simply clean up the odor after the problem is
treated, otherwise you will need to try some of the behavior
modification outlined below (and you'll still need to clean up the
odor).

You must remove the odor from items that the cat sprayed on to prevent
the cat from using the same spot again later.  The ammonia smell tells
the cat that this is an elimination spot, so never use ammonia to try
and "remove" the odor!  See (Removing Urine Odor).

Cats sometimes spray to mark their territory so sometimes an area for
your cat that other animals cannot go to will help.  Keeping the
litterbox *immaculately clean* will help in other cases.

Sometimes cats pick small throw rugs with non-skid backing to urinate
on.  This is caused by an odor from the backing that somehow tells
the cat to urinate there (probably an ammonia-like smell).
Cat-repellent sprays or washing the rug *may* help; you might just
have to get rid of that rug.

For persistent spraying after the above steps, try the procedure
outlined in (Housebreaking).

C.  Scratching.

For unwanted scratching, provide an approved scratching post or other
item.  Issue firm "no!"s on unapproved items.  You may wish to spray
Bitter Apple or Bitter Orange (available at most pet stores) on items
that they are particularly stubborn about.  Praise them and give a cat
treat when they use the approved scratching material.  Demonstrate how
to use the post by (yes) going up to it and scratching it like your
cat would.  They will come over to investigate your scent and then
leave their own.

Pepper (black, white, or cayenne) can be applied to furniture and
plants to discourage scratching.  This does not deter all cats.  You
can also cover areas with double-sided tape (sticky on both sides) to
discourage unwanted scratching.  (Always be sure to provide an
alternative scratching item.)

In general, cats will either use a post a lot or never use it.  The
deciding factor can be the material that the post is made out of.  It
has to be fairly smooth (cats usually don't like plush carpet) and
shouldn't be a material that their nails get stuck in.  Once that
happens, they may not use the post anymore.  Natural fiber rope
wrapped tightly around the post appeals to many cats.  Some cats like
plain wood; a two-by-four made available may work well.  Other cats
prefer the kind of "scratching posts" that are horizontal rather than
verticle.

E.  Housetraining.

It is possible for cats to stop using the litter box or to have
trouble learning in the first place.

Do NOT *ever* try to discourage a cat's mistakes by rubbing its nose
in it.  It never worked for dogs and most certainly will not work for
cats.  In fact, you wind up reminding the cat of where a good place to
eliminate is!

Potential CAUSES for failure to use litterbox:

  * MEDICAL PROBLEMS:
    1. diarrhea (many causes)
       a.  small intestinal- soft to watery
       b.  colitis (inflamed colon)- mucus in stool, blood, straining

    2. urinary bladder inflammation
       a.  FUS
       b.  Bacterial infections
       c.  trauma
       d.  calculi (bladder stones)
       e.  tumors

    3. polydipsia/polyuria
       (excessive water volume consumed and urine voided: upper water
       intake for cats is 1oz/lb; most cats drink considerably less
       than this)
       a.  diabetes insipidus
       b.  diabetes mellitus
       c.  kidney disease
       d.  liver disease
       e.  adrenal gland disease
       f.  pyometra (pus in the uterus)
       g.  hypercalcemia (high blood calcium)
       h.  others

  * TERRITORIAL MARKING:
    1.  intact female in heat
    2.  intact male spraying
    3.  marking of peripheral walls particularly near windows may be
        from presence of outdoor cats
    4.  may be triggered by over-crowding of indoor cats
    5.  Previously neutered cat has a bit of testicular or ovarian
        tissue remaining.  This may result in low level of hormone
        which could trigger marking.
    6.  neutered male with sexual experience exposed to female in heat

  * LITTER BOX PROBLEMS:
    1.  overcrowding:  too many cats using same box
    2.  failure to change littter frequently enough -- some cats won't
        use a dirty box
    3.  failure to provide constant access to litterbox
    4.  change in type of litter used
    5.  change in location of litterbox
    6.  unfamiliar, frightening, or loud objects near box: dishwasher,
        etc.
    7.  food and water too close to litterbox
    8.  objectionable chemical used to wash or disinfect litterbox
    9.  location preference: your cat may want his box in a different
        location
    10. texture preference: your cat doesn't like the feel of the
        litter
    11. failure to cover litter:  learned process from parents
        a.  use of litterbox is instinctive
        b.  cats that don't cover litter may be more prone to
            litterbox problems
        c.  your cat may be indicating texture preference problem

  * PSYCHOLOGICAL STRESS:
    (most common manifestation is inappropriate urination)
    1.  addition or subtraction of other pets in household
    2.  visitors, company, parties, redecorating, construction, or any
        type of commotion
    3.  a move to a new environment
    4.  change in routine or schedule:  a new job or working hours
    5.  their return from boarding or hospitilization
    6.  interaction problem with other pets or cats
        a.  cats are asocial rather than antisocial; in the wild each
            has a territory and period of contact with others in the
            group (and only one male per group)
        b.  a closed environment will create a greater degree of
            interaction than some cats prefer.  The more cats in a
            household, the greater the degree of interaction

  * CHEMICAL ATTRACTION OF PREVIOUS "ACCIDENTS:"
    1.  likely to produce repeated visitations to the same spot
    2.  may induce urination by other members of a multi-cat household
    3.  you may have moved to a residence previously occupied with
        other dogs and/or cats

Treatment:

  * Rule out medical problems FIRST
    1.  complete history and physical
    2.  stool/GI workup for diarrhea (if needed)
    3.  urinalysis for inappropriate urination to rule out an
        infection
    4.  workup for polydipsia/polyuria
    5.  important to check all cats of a multi-cat household
        a.  last cat seen misbehaving may be responding to chemical
            attraction and not be an instigator
        b.  more than one cat could have problem
    6.  treat/correct medical problems first.  Behavioral problems can
        only be diagnosed in a healthy cat

  * Territorial marking:
    1.  neuter all cats (check history of neutered cats; retained
        testicle in male or signs of heat in female)
    2.  prevent other cats from coming around outside of house, close
        windows, blinds, and doors
    3.  prevent overcrowding in multi-cat households

  * Litter box problems:
    1.  provide a box for each cat
    2.  change litter daily
    3.  provide constant access to a box
    4.  go back to previously used brand of litter and/or discontinue
        new disinfectant
    5.  move box to where it was previously used
    6.  eliminate new or frightening noise near litterbox
    7.  move food and water away from litterbox
    8.  if cat is only going in one spot, put the litterbox at the
        exact location and gradually move it back to where you want it
        at the rate of one foot per day
    9.  if there are several places, try putting dishes of cat food in
        those areas to discourage further elimination there
    10. experiment with different textures of litter (cats prefer
        sandy litter)
    11. use a covered litterbox for cats that stand in box but
        eliminate outside of it

  * Psychological Stress:
    1.  eliminate if possible
    2.  try to provide each cat at home with its own "space"
        a.  use favorite resting areas to determine
        b.  provide separate litterboxes near each space if possible
        c.  cubicles, boxes, shelves, crates are effective for this
    3.  tranquilizers sometimes work well in multicat situations

  * Chemical attraction:
    1.  dispose of all soiled fabric or throw rugs if possible
    2.  50% vinegar or commercial products may be used
    3.  steam cleaning may help
    4.  repellants may help
    5.  do not replace carpeting until problem entirely solved or it
        may start all over again on your new carpeting